My bum is by now a little sore – the buses are, after all, commuter vehicles and not comfy coaches. I consider it worth the effort for the journey so far, although I’m still a little thankful by the time we hit Santa Cruz.

As I wait for the next bus, there’s just half an hour with which to check out the newly revamped historical quarter, a trinity of excellent museums – Man and Nature, Fine Arts, and Military – and the gravity-defying architecture of the new auditorium. So instead I grab a bite to eat. Bus station fodder worldwide always has a distinctive flavour and, though it might have been the subtle seasoning of diesel fumes, my hot ham and cheese baguette did not disappoint!

The 246 has the smallest queue of all the buses at Santa Cruz station, which is hardly surprising as it’s the route to Almaciga, one of the most remote villages on the island. Set on the far side of the Anaga mountains at Tenerife’s most northern tip, it is my ultimate destination.

When the 246 gets to San Andrés, a fishing village on the fringe of Santa Cruz, the bus veers into the hills, motoring higher and higher on a mountain pass that scales the verdant heights like a giant helter-skelter. Emerging from a tunnel, I get a stupendous view down to the ocean, as well as the San Andrés seaside cottages, lying by the water like scattered sugar cubes on green baize. Finally, the 246 reaches journey’s end, Almaciga – nothing more than a cliff-side cluster of whitewashed houses laced with narrow alleyways and beautifully tranquil.

I disembark and walk back down to the coastal road, where a trio of oceanfront bars and restaurants are offering fresh seafood and frosty refreshments. With a plate of squid, crusty bread and local beer, I fill my stomach while watching a couple of locals surf the waves breaking over the craggy coastline.

My bus experiment has proved successful. Few tourists are here and I have travelled – a little scarily, it’s true – without the stress of driving tight mountain roads myself, and with time to enjoy spectacular views along the way. I am at the furthest point possible from Playa de las Américas, separated from civilisation by 1,000m-high mountains and a choppy sea.

It’s the perfect escape from the madding crowd, and I check into what looks like the only room to rent in town, above the Restaurante Olga (+34 922 590 220, €40 a night), to watch the sun set on this Canarian outpost.

I’d been all around the island in the space of a day, spied beaches unseen by most visitors, and followed in the footsteps – or rather tyre treads – of everyday islanders. Plus, I still had plenty of the island left to explore, and €3 credit on my Bono. That and a sore bum are a small price to pay for the perfect non-tourist trip around Tenerife.

Viva la Bono!

Best routes to follow…

If you’re seeking a little sand between your toes, but in a less commercial environment, hop on one of the following routes:

> 473 from Las Americas to Los Gigantes, taking in Playa San Juan, Playa La Arena and Puerto Santiago.
> 343 from Las Americas to Puerto de la Cruz.
> 483 from Las Americas to El Medano.
> 110 from Las Americas to Santa Cruz then change to the 910 to Las Teresitas.

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