City Focus
Citynights MARRAKESH Head into the city for everything from Moroccan feasts to clubbing
AS with most aspects of Marrakesh
life, the epicentre of the night scene
is DJEMAA EL-FNA. Head to the terrace of the
eccentric, old-school CAFÉ DE FRANCE for a bird’s
eye view of the square switching to night mode.
They do food on the first terrace, but the
lesser-known drinks-only upper
level affords the best views.
After watching stalls spring up across the square, you’ll soon get an appetite from the wafting grill smoke. So slip down and check out the options, before plonking yourself on one of the communal benches for a tasty Moroccan feast that’s both touristy and local at the same time.
If you fancy alcohol with
your meal, head to LE MARRAKCHI, a
fun restaurant that enjoys sweeping views
of the square. Its lamb and chicken tagines are
excellent and you can order dishes à la carte. You
won’t be able to do that at LE TOBSIL, and you
probably won’t be able to move after the full-on
set-menu feast. Other chic options include DAR
YACOUT, with its impressively theatrical service,
and PALAIS SOLEIMAN, which is as palatial as it
sounds. One stunning, but little-known, gem
is ZIWANA. An Antoni Gaudi and César
Manrique-inspired wonderland,
it stages fashion parties and
launches, as well as catering
for much smaller groups
for dinner, too.
Serious clubbers will want to check out PACHA, a taxi ride and a world away. This cavernous haunt lives off the brand’s global reputation a bit, but the music is spot on and the expense is often worth it. Although, I much prefer THEATRE, a funky UK-style house club where locals usually outnumber tourists and no one cares how well or even how dirty you dance.
The Marrakesh Gig Jad Mahal
Marrakesh doesn’t have any world-class live music
venues to speak of, and usually the only music you’ll
hear is on the streets and at the bars of international
chain hotels. However, help is at hand for music
fans at restaurant JAD MAHAL. À la carte tagines and
couscous hit the spot, as does the international
comfort food. Belly dancers and a wacky live band
later on add spice to one of Marrakesh’s leastpretentious
fun nights, as the band churns out
cover versions and Arabic sounds.
FONTAINE DE LA MAMOUNIA. TEL: +212 (0)24 436 984. LIVE
MUSIC AT WEEKENDS AND SOMETIMES DURING THE WEEK, TOO.
Cheap eats can be found on Djemaa El-Fna, and around the city look out for stomach-testing little tagine joints. Try pastilla, in its purest form – a tasty pigeon pie ideal for filling up budget-conscious travellers. Bargain hard when shopping in the souks, starting at least 50% lower than what you have been quoted, and using the old “walking away” technique to get the price you had in mind all along.
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