by Robin McKelvie

Citylens MARRAKESH
NO one knows exactly when Berber tribes first breezed into the city the world now eulogises as Marrakesh. For almost as long as it has had a name, this Moroccan oasis — wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and Atlas Mountains – has captivated every traveller, from legendary medieval Arab travel writer Ibn Battuta to 1960s hippies and French poets as well as the Hollywood celebrities of today. Spend time chilling out in the medina, wrapped in the exotic sights, smells and sounds, and you’ll realise why. One sight and smell in particular is of the legendary spices on sale throughout the souk’s spice bazaar. Piled up in minimountains of colour, they look incredible and smell even better. You won’t but be able to purchase a few bags and enjoy cooking with them when you get home.

Citydays MARRAKESH
Grab a fresh juice as you delve into the souks – and prepare to be charmed!
THERE is simply no doubt about where any visit to Marrakesh should begin. DJEMAA EL-FNA, the main public square bordering the souks, is almost indescribable it’s so rich and colourful. Forget world-class galleries and museums, Marrakesh is a museum itself – a living and breathing one.

The square, or the “Gathering of the Dead”, is an oasis/living hell/paradise crammed to bursting point with slithering snake charmers, skull-splitting acrobats, shambling donkeys, speeding mopeds, smiling shoe shiners, scheming fortune tellers, sweet juice bars, suitably charmed or terrified tourists and just about anything else you can think of.

There are numerous options for taking it all in. If you want to get above the mayhem, sip a mint tea on the terrace at CAFÉ GLACIAL, although like most places in the medina it doesn’t serve alcohol. Tasty Moroccan food and healthy salads are on offer on both the upper level and ground floor of the nearby LES TERRASSES DE L’ALHAMBRA, so you can also choose to be part of the action. However, a quick Arabic “ la shukran” (“no thanks”) usually gets rid of the various peddlers trying to work their way into your wallet.

Head off Djemaa El-Fna and delve into the intense spicy aromas and colourful characters in the souks – as compelling as anything you’ll find on sale. If you get lost, persevere and you will eventually bundle back out to somewhere that you recognise.

Alternatively, ask a local, who will either gladly help you out for the price of a smile or try to charge you a small fortune for the privilege. If you want to explore beyond the medina, a cheesy but enjoyable way to do it is to take one of the bright red sightseeing buses from SQUARE CHARLES DE FOUCAULD. And a more atmospheric tour is on offer from any of the old horse and carts that trundle around and remind you why suspension was such a great invention.

The most alluring building in Marrakesh is also its highest point. A short stroll from Djemaa El-Fna is the KOUTOUBIA MOSQUE. The centrepiece is its 77m-high minaret, which reaches for the heavens in an explosion of graceful Islamic architecture.

Take time to stroll around the leafy orange grove gardens on the other side, opening up more unusual views of the tower as you go. Sunset is a lovely time to be here. If you are seeking a respite from clay pot cooking then take a pew across the road on the terrace at the PIZZERIA VENEZIA. The wood-fired pizzas are the best in the city and there are also great views of the minaret twinkling into life as the sun starts to ease down over Marrakesh.

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