After about two hours, the east-bound path comes to an end with spectacular abruptnessat an 18m-wide natural balcony overhanging an escarpment. From here, 3,900m up with the sun rising ahead, you get your first tantalising glimpse of the eastern ranges and of your goal, the highest piece of land in North Africa.

“Very close now,” our guide Mohammed tells us, in a futile attempt to encourage our listless little band. “Doesn’t bloody look it,” I think, as we stare up at the narrowing “col” known as Tizi n’Toubkal, a pass that represents the climb’s final kilometre but is also its most precarious section. Prompted to desperate measures by the formidable sight, I forage in my bag for the remaining Mars bars.

Mohammed was right, of course. Once you’ve survived 20 minutes of pain-etchedon- face scrambling to reach the crest of the ridge, and pigeon-stepped your way across a terrifying traverse, the ground levels off into a small plateau, and then it’s a flattish 100m strut to the summit, which is marked by a 4m-high metal pyramid covered in celebratory “I was here” scrawls of previous conquerors. The view from the roof of North Africa is as epic as the tales of Ibn Battuta, a scene dominated by the giant granite buttresses of Toubkal’s sister peaks stretching far into the distance. As these formidable ridges taper down to the east they disappear behind a curtain of heat haze that conceals the western reaches of the Sahara.

Yet even on our whistle-stop itinerary we have plenty of time to get off the mountain, return to Marrakesh, and swap walking boots for flip-flops – before hitting the heaving human havoc of Djemaa el-Fna square to tuck into tagines, couscous and sheep’s head (OK, so we skipped the latter, but I’m reliably assured that it’s delectable).

So if you’re trying to think of something to do for your stag weekend, but don’t fancy getting bladdered and ending up wrapped naked in clingfilm on a pavement in Düsseldorf, a weekend climbing Jebel Toubkal could be the answer.

It can be done. Even for you, yes you sitting there lamenting your residual rolls of winter blubber, could make it up this big rock. All it takes is a bit of bloody-mindedness, a few gallons of mint tea, and a pack of miniature Mars bars.

Getting there
Once you’ve taken your cheap Ryanair flight to Marrakesh, if you want to head straight to Imlil, the grand-taxi drivers hovering outside the arrivals gate will take you there directly, albeit for an extortionate price. Alternatively, arrange a lift through a local tour agency, or take one of the local buses to Imlil from the south gate of the medina, which leave hourly and cost 10 dirhams (90 cents).

WHEN TO GO
Jebel Toubkal can be climbed throughout the year, but what is a relatively simple ascent in the summer months can become much more of a challenge between November and March. Winter temperatures above 3,000m have been known to drop to as low as -15°C. By contrast, the searing heat and aridity in July and August can make walking distinctly uncomfortable. So the best time of year to visit Toubkal National Park is in April and May, by which time the winter storms have passed and the heat is yet to reach insufferable levels.

Where to stay
Imlil has accommodation to suit all budgets, and you should have no problems finding a room outside of the peak summer months, when prices rise and it would be good advice to book ahead. Here you’ll find Kasbah du Toubkal (www. kasbahdutoubkal.com), which takes groups as well as individuals. A bed at the Toubkal Refuge will set you back 80—150 dirhams (€7—13) depending on the time of year (it’s more expensive in winter). The French Alpine Club (CAF) also runs a further four refuges elsewhere in Toubkal National Park. Bed reservations can be made by contacting the Oukaimeden Refuge (email: ouka@cafmaroc. co.ma), or by going through a tour agency.

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