Venice

Hit the watery bars, clubs and restaurants of Italy’s canal city, and indulge yourself with in luxury, says Rob McKelvie

IF you thought that Venice was all about tacky gondola rides and poor-value restaurants, then think again — the “Divine Republic” is a true hedonists’ paradise, where you can really live it up if you know where to go.

There is only one place to stay for the dedicated pleasure seeker. Hotel Cipriani, or “The Cip”, as she is known to her A-list guests, is Italy’s most expensive hotel. From the moment you zip off from San Marco in their luxury launch you know you’re going to be bedding down somewhere special. If you don’t fancy being a speedboat ride away on Giudecca island, then opt for the deluxe hideaway of the Baglioni (1243 San Marco), right at the heart of the action.

Aromi, the signature restaurant at the brand new Hilton Molino Stucky on Giudecca. Feast on local spider crab, mantis shrimp and fresh vegetables from the Rialto Market. Afterwards, nip upstairs for a cocktail in their skyline bar, with its panoramic views.

In recent months, the Rialto Market itself has become the new hub of Venetian hipsters. Haunts to look out for include Al Merca, where spritzers are the drink of choice, and minimalist Muro Vino e Cucina. Also try Naranzaria (130 San Polo), a great place to sip a Campari and watch the gondolas drift by.

For the next day, most of the fashionable shopping boutiques, including Benetton, Max Mara, Sisley and Calvin Klein, are on or off the main drag between the train station and Piazza San Marco. Among the host of international designers on show, you’ll fi nd all the big Italian names — Versace, Armani and Valentino.

Forget sightseeing or shopping in the afternoon, and opt instead for a lingering lunch. La Terrazza Danieli affords a stunning view across Riva degli Schiavoni, over to San Giorgio Maggiore and the lagoon. The cuisine is equally impressive and you can tuck in to dishes like tagliatelle with truffl es and baked sea bass, before rounding it all off with a delicious tiramisu.

Before dinner, sip a chilled Bellini at Harry’s Bar (Calle Vallaresso), then splash out on the best international comfort food you will ever devour. Don’t let the celebs knock your elbows off the bar, be forceful — you deserve to be there! Finish off the evening at Bacaro Jazz (Salizada del Fontego dei Tedeschi), with its lively sounds and chilled clientele.

The next day, get out of bed early for a cruise to one of the Venetian islands. Burano is a great escape, with its collection of prettily coloured houses and sleepy canals. Pull up a pew and enjoy a cappuccino while you congratulate yourself on the ultimate hedonists’ weekend.

The Venice gig

Venice isn’t overfl owing with great music venues, and those it does have tend to shut in August. However, music lovers need not despair — Caffè Quadri on Piazza San Marco will be dishing up a steady diet of live classical music every night, rain or shine, fl oods or no fl oods.

There’s a cover charge just for sitting down, so a bottle of wine shared works out much better value than a couple of coffees.

VENICE ON THE CHEAP

Getting a decent, central place to stay for €100 can be tricky, but Hotel Santa Lucia (tel: +39 041 715 180, www.hotel slucia.com) fi ts the bill.

Why pay €90 for a water taxi when you can enjoy the same journey down the Grand Canal for €6 with a vaporetto ferry? You can also buy transport passes that also get you into local museums. The cheapest way to cross over the Grand Canal, after the three bridges, is the traditional traghetti gondola. The short trip costs just 50 cents.

This entry was posted on Thursday, August 16th, 2007 at 4:23 am and is filed under General. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. Both comments and pings are currently closed.