RIAD LIVING

Escape the buzz of the souks and bed down at one of Morocco’s riads, where a world of spas, home-cooked food and culture awaits you, says Jill Starley-Grainger

THE 14th-century Arab traveller Ibn Battuta probably stayed in one when he visited Marrakesh 700 years ago. In his legendary diary The Travels he often describes with awe the courtyards, secret indoor gardens and lush décor – wood-beamed ceilings, tiled floors and Berber carpets – of the traditional Moroccan riad. And no wonder.

Today, these houses are the accommodation of choice for those coming to Marrakesh and Fez seeking a truly local feel. Well-priced but with modern luxuries and city centre locations, the new riads have more to offer than Morocco’s modern resort hotels. As Ibn Battuta whiled away the afternoons in the shaded courtyards of riads centuries ago, so you can do the same today. We visit some of the finest.

Best for nature lovers

Kasbah du Toubkal sits amid Berber villages halfway up Morocco’s highest mountain, Mount Toubkal, providing high-end accommodation in rustic surroundings. The result of a 25-year project, the Kasbah is a pioneer of responsible tourism, winning a plethora of awards as a result. Formerly the home of a local ruler, it offers a unique glimpse into Berber life.

Accommodation ranges from multi-bedded Berber salons to the enormous Garden House, complete with living room, kitchen, dining room, private terraces and a large, luxurious bathroom. Staff hail from local communities and will be happy to arrange excursions into the mountains or Berber villages. Guests can also enjoy a hammam in the bathhouse in the afternoon.

Hot: The views of snow-capped mountains dotted with villages are incomparable.

Not: The journey there takes 1¼ hours from Marrakesh and can be expensive.

Doubles from Mad 1,672 (€150), with breakfast and hammam. Berber salons, without en-suite bathrooms, from Mad 1,338 (€120) for three people, with breakfast and hammam.

Kasbah du Toubkal, Imlil. Tel: +212 (0)24 485 611, www.kasbahdutoubkal.com. For packages, call +44 (0)1273 600030, or visit www.responsibletravel.com

Best for being a VIP

You’ll get a royal reception at this opulent riad, a favourite among celebrities and Moroccan aristocracy. When the chaos of Fez’s medina gets too much, stepping into Riad Maison Bleue’s cool central courtyard – with its small pool, shaded by lush orange trees – is the perfect antidote. Rooms are lavish, with large, canopied beds, elegant sitting areas and spacious bathrooms. The three roof terraces offer excellent views of the nearby hills and the small bar is a great place to relax in the evening.

Expect a high level of service from the friendly staff, and a hammam in the private spa is a must. Gourmands should try the vegetable pastilla at the nearby La Maison Bleue (tel: +212 3574 1843), owned by the same family.

Hot: The sumptuously appointed rooms.

Not: Bathrooms need a little more lighting. Doubles from Mad 1,970 (€177), including breakfast. Spa treatments from Mad 400 (€36). Riad Maison Bleue & Spa, Fez Tel: +212 3574 1839, www.maisonbleue.com

Best for hip grown-ups

Along a small alley in the middle of the medina, a hidden doorway opens to reveal the fairytale courtyard of Dar Seffarine. Graphic designer Kate and architect Alaa bought a crumbling medieval riad in 2003, restoring it to its original, magnificent state over the next three years.

Decorative zelliges make up the lower part of the walls in most rooms, with ornate plasterwork and carved woodwork above. Kate Kvalvik and Alaa Said could see that sumptuous furnishings would be overkill here, so they instead opted for high quality, yet simple, interior decoration. The roof terrace is a wonderful place to relax, with unbeatable views of the medina.

Hot: The food. Breakfasts are feasts and the dinners – offered just once or twice a week – are to die for.

Not: Daylight rarely reaches the courtyard, making it a cool respite in summer but chilly in winter.

Doubles from Mad 780 (€70), with breakfast. Dar Seffarine, Fez, +212 7111 3528, www.darseffarine.com

Best for culture vultures

This serene retreat is moments from Marrakesh’s famous Jmaa El Fnaa square, with its street performers, food sellers and fortune tellers.

The former home of the German ambassador, it’s full of his collection of art and artefacts.

Wandering through this meandering riad is part of the pleasure. One turn may lead to the small pool, another to the hammam, but all return you to the main courtyard, where birds twitter through the citrus trees and a delicious dinner is served as classical music wafts through the air. The suites are fabulous, but even the cheapest doubles are spacious and luxurious.

Hot: The roof terraces, which offer stunning views of the Atlas Mountains.

Not: The toiletries, such as Dettol soap, aren’t in keeping with the upmarket atmosphere. Doubles from Mad 1,280 (€115), with breakfast. Riyad El Cadi, Marrakesh Tel: +212 2437 8655, www.riyadelcadi.com

Best for families

For those wanting more services than offered by a typical riad, such as TV, telephone, taxi access, a bar and a 24-hour manned reception desk, Les Borjs de la Kasbah fits the bill. Several riads were joined together to create this small hotel, and all 18 rooms overlook a courtyard.

The rooms offer plenty of lighting, spacious wardrobes and enormous bathrooms. Arab and Moorish architectural elements are used throughout. The buildings are old, but the renovation gives Les Borjs more the feel of a boutique hotel than a Moroccan home. Because it’s next to the grounds of the royal palace, Les Borjs can’t have a roof terrace, but a spa, pool and hammam are expected to open in June.

Hot: Staff couldn’t be more helpful.

Not: Lacks the intimate feel of smaller riads. Doubles from Mad 1,500 (€135), with breakfast. Les Borjs de la Kasbah, Marrakesh. Tel: +212 2438 1101, www.lesborjsdelakasbah.com

HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS

Brothers Richard Bee, 36, and Daniel, 31, bought Riad Tizwa in Marrakesh in 2005. It was intended originally to be a second home, but when the project went over budget, they turned it into a stylish guesthouse

WALKING through the door of Riad Tizwa, you feel as though you’re visiting long-time friends rather than staying at an anonymous hotel. “We’ve always wanted our riad to be a home away from home and I think we’ve achieved that,” says Richard.

Riads are growing in popularity and, to meet demand, many are being turned into guesthouses (maisons d’hôtes) and holiday lets. “The atmosphere is laid-back and relaxed luxury,” says Daniel, “and although the staff offer a high level of service, it’s a comfortable level.” Having spent time visiting a friend’s riad in Marrakesh, Richard and Daniel decided to purchase their own. Richard says: “I saw 52 riads in one weekend, whizzing around the souk on the back of the estate agent’s motorbike. I fell for a riad that was double our budget. It was beautiful, in the right location and the rooms had width as well as length, which is unusual for riads.”

The buying process in Morocco is similar to England’s, taking about two to three months from offer to completion. Getting maison d’hôtes status is the longest procedure and “can easily take up to a year”, says Daniel. Unlike many riads they looked at, Tizwa was structurally sound, so the only work required was installing air conditioning, upgrading the electrics and fitting additional lighting. Finding tradesmen in Morocco turned out to be far easier than in the UK, with neighbours happy to recommend skilled labourers. “If you need a plumber or an electrician, someone will be there in half an hour and, unlike in the UK, you can afford them,” says Richard.

Richard designed the furniture himself, commissioning craftsmen from the medina to build it using local materials. Marrakesh has quite a few riads, so small touches like the Berber tent on the roof terrace and iPod docking stations to listen to your music in every room, help this one stand out.

Riad Tizwa opened its doors in early 2006. Throughout the renovation, Richard and Daniel stayed in their regular jobs, taking it in turns to spend weekends and holidays in Morocco. They enjoyed it so much they bought two more riads, in the medina of Fez and on the coast in Sidi Ifni, which will both open this summer.

For anyone thinking about buying a riad as a guesthouse, it’s worth considering why most people choose to stay there over nearby chain hotels. “I can’t stand the fact that when I’m in a hotel, I have to go down to breakfast by 9am,” says Richard. “At Tizwa, you can have breakfast whenever and wherever. We want our riad to feel like a second home, not a hotel.”

Doubles in Marrakesh from Mad 816 (€73), including breakfast.

Riad Tizwa, Marrakesh, Fez and Sidi Ifni.

Tel UK: +44 (0)7973 238 444. Tel Morocco: +212 6819 0872, www.riadtizwa.com

Buying your own riad

WHETHER you want a riad as a second home, or to run as a guesthouse, the buying process is essentially the same. Properties are often listed with estate agents, but many people sell by word of mouth, so ask any locals you meet. Unofficial estate agents, often called simsaars, shouldn’t be overlooked, as they usually represent a wide selection of properties, but they are unregistered so use them with caution.

Try to arrange appointments to view before you go – that way you can see dozens of riads in just a few days. Making an offer is straightforward. Unlike the souks, you shouldn’t expect to knock much, if anything, off the list price. If your offer is accepted, the process in Morocco is similar to England’s, with legal issues to sort out and documents to sign. A local lawyer or public notary will usually handle the transaction and also guide you through the various levels of bureaucracy necessary to complete the sale.

Fees and taxes for buying a riad, including payments to estate agents and lawyers, will vary from about 5% to 13% of the purchase price, depending on the property and your planned use for it. You will be required to fill in form after form and pay an almost endless stream of small taxes and fees.

You’ll probably need to open an account at a local bank, so be prepared to make friends with the bank manager, a common practice in Morocco.

Only a few Moroccan banks offer mortgages to foreigners, and rates are usually worse than what you’ll find in the UK or Ireland. Most foreign buyers extend the mortgage on their existing house to pay for their home in Morocco, but there are now some British and Irish companies who offer mortgages on Moroccan properties, usually at 70% of the value.

Where to buy

Morocco is a destination on the rise, thanks in no small part to their modernising king. He has huge plans for the tourist industry, so almost everywhere should see a surge in visitors. Marrakesh is one of the hippest destinations – a trend set to continue – while Fez suffers from a shortage of good quality guesthouses, so there’s a gap that needs to be filled. In Marrakesh, riads with a few bedrooms usually start at Mad 1,630,870 (€146,338), but in Fez it’s still possible to snap up bargains for Mad 815,435 (€73,169) or less.

Reading up

Buying a House in Morocco by Abby Aron (Vacation Work, £12.95/€19) includes all aspects of house buying, from choosing the right area to detailed information about the purchasing process. www.houseinfez.com has excellent information about buying property in Fez. www.buyingmoroccan.property.com is a mine of information, with useful message boards, book and website reviews and links to estate agents.

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